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Soft "De-coking" of the top end...

SeanPwnery

New Member
Nov 30, 2022
17
2
Truck Year
2016
I'm curious if anyone's come up with a method of doing a soft de-coke on the top end - you know, something like a metered fog of B12 or Seafoam at idle for a few minutes every couple of weeks to gradually eat away at the horror show most of us are certainly going to find in there. I'd love nothing more than to go full delete and drop a Banks intake on mine and call it a day, but until that day comes I'll just have to roll with what I've got.

I'm actually heading outside right now to do the MAP cleaning, and maybe having a go at the EGR tube since I've had the red-lightning bolt 3 times since taking ownership of this truck two months ago.
 

SeanPwnery

New Member
Nov 30, 2022
17
2
Truck Year
2016
I went ahead and pulled apart the top end yesterday - my insulator and engine cover weren't with the truck when I bought it so I had a miniscule head start. The T40 bolt holding the map sensor wasn't hard to get out and the sensor itself wasn't as dirty as I anticipated. There was one blob of soot on it, otherwise it had an even coating. A little squirt of intake/maf cleaner and an old toothbrush had it clean in seconds. I've seen some really terrible looking EGR tubes watching others on Youtube pull theirs and was expecting to see a clumpy, hairy monster come out. Surprisingly enough, it too was a whole lot cleaner than others I've seen. That one took a can of non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner and brush, a little pooling, and a LOT of shaking until it ran out of the tube pretty clean. No fuzzy caterpillar tube and it was about 90% clean metal again. Other than that, new air filter (because who knows when the PO did it but it wasn't too bad), and shook the grit out of the lower box while I was in there. All in all, that whole process only took about an hour or so. I dropped in a can of Seafoam and put 12 gallons in the tank to give me about a 150% strength mix.

Anyway, CEL and the Lightning bolt turned off and stayed off. Throttle response seems a bit peppier. I guess I'll know what that translates to as I do the weekly commute. All in all, pretty easy maintenance.
 

Ed Brock

New Member
Jan 8, 2023
5
0
Truck Year
Not Listed
Hi, new member here. I have done what Sean has done and the "lighting bolt" and check engine light are still lit. I can clear the codes but when I go to start the truck they come back on immediately.

The Tmap and the throttle charge air temp sensor are working properly. I bought factory new ones to confirm proper ohms since there is no mention anywhere of the ohms reading.

I also get the code PO 336(crank sensor). I know about the tone ring issue, I know that my warrantee as been extended. I have contacted the dealer and had them order the parts but they are 3-6 months out, could be longer.

I have two questions;
1) is the crank sensor and the turbo valve dependent on each other. Meaning if the crank sensor is not reading correctly, will that trigger the turbo valve issue?
2) I am looking for a FSM can't seem to locate one. I heard there is a CD but that's had to take out into the field. Any help on the service turbo valve and a FSM would be great.
Thanks.
 
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