• Welcome to EcoDieselRam.com We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your EcoDiesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • We believe in quality OVER quantity, and a family friendly place for your #EcoDiesel home!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER! Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Well, the saga continues!

Frank246

Member
Feb 20, 2019
75
24
Truck Year
2015
As I have posted, my truck broke down in Dallas, TX with a Tone Wheel and starter failure. Finally got the truck repaired and towed my TT back to Charleston, SC.
Seemed to tow ok and engine/oil temps as before with as much as 30 degrees delta between water and oil temps.

While in the dealership in TX, the EGR was replaced also.

After getting back on Friday night, did not disconnect or move the truck until this morning. Checked the radiator and.....DOWN OVER HALF A GALLON of ANTIFREEZE!

WHAT??
Check for leaks...nothing to be seen.
Filled the radiator back up to mark and ran the engine down the highway watching for temps and thermostat openings. Seemed to be same as usual with thermostat opening around 200 degrees and delta between water and oil increasing.

Soooooooooooooo...... Three way value? Water pump? Hose to turbo? Radiator hoses?

No leaks showing up either on the truck or on the ground.
Currently waiting for engine to cool down to see what the overflow tank will show for coolant.
 

Frank246

Member
Feb 20, 2019
75
24
Truck Year
2015
BTW, the radiator was filled by the dealership and checked both when I picked it up from them and before I started out for the trip back to SC.
 

Frank246

Member
Feb 20, 2019
75
24
Truck Year
2015
So, after driving the truck for a while, letting it get up to normal operating temps, came back home and found a damp floor under the passenger front seat mat. Carpet is damp.

Soooo,
1. Heater core
2. hose issue to heater core
3. A/C evaporator
All are located in the dash, passenger side.....I think???

Anybody done any work in this area or had any problems with this?
I search youtube but didn't find anything specific to our trucks.
 

Frank246

Member
Feb 20, 2019
75
24
Truck Year
2015
IF your following this thread, the SAGA continues for sure!

Well,..............believe it or not, the truck failed to START!!
As you may know, I was in TX on the 22 nd. of July, the truck failed to start. LONG story, but the dealership was able to get a new starter and a EGR and a Tone Wheel replaced. Got the truck back and all seemed well.

As this thread started, finally got home on Aug. 5th. only to discover on Aug 6 that I have an antifreeze leak somewhere, with antifreeze both leaking outside close to the firewall and inside front passenger cabin.

NOW, today, the truck is AGAIN FAILING TO START! WHAT!!!>>>?????
Same symptoms as before, out in Texas.
I ran the truck for 200 miles yesterday with 5 starts and stops. No problem
Today, went 60 miles with 3 starts with no problems.
On the fourth stop, after sitting for maybe 2 hours, push start...just a grunt.
Waited about a frustrating 10-15 sec., no start just a grunt.
Waited about a min., no start just a grunt.
Waited another frustrating 3-4 mins.................. STARTS RIGHT UP LIKE NOTHING IS WRONG!!

As you know, I replaced the battery, the started, EGR and TWheel as a result of this "symptom" before.

When it "grunts", its all the world like a discharged battery. Wants to think about starting, but can't even turn the engine over one time. No "clicking" of the solenoid, like you might get with a dead battery. Just the grunt try to start.

The only thing I can see that has changed in all this time of challenges, is the voltage display on the dash. As I've mentioned before, all the 4+ years of having the truck, the display on voltage would read 14V. Never changed .

When I first started having a problem, I noticed that the voltage readout has changed to 13 volts. When I start it up, it show 12v and very quickly jumps back to 13v. Does not change with A/C, Lights, heater, radio, everything I can turn on.....just stays at 13v.

ANY ideas what the heck is going on??
 

Frank246

Member
Feb 20, 2019
75
24
Truck Year
2015
IF your following this thread, the SAGA continues for sure!

Well,..............believe it or not, the truck failed to START!!
As you may know, I was in TX on the 22 nd. of July, the truck failed to start. LONG story, but the dealership was able to get a new starter and a EGR and a Tone Wheel replaced. Got the truck back and all seemed well.

As this thread started, finally got home on Aug. 5th. only to discover on Aug 6 that I have an antifreeze leak somewhere, with antifreeze both leaking outside close to the firewall and inside front passenger cabin.

NOW, today, the truck is AGAIN FAILING TO START! WHAT!!!>>>?????
Same symptoms as before, out in Texas.
I ran the truck for 200 miles yesterday with 5 starts and stops. No problem
Today, went 60 miles with 3 starts with no problems.
On the fourth stop, after sitting for maybe 2 hours, push start...just a grunt.
Waited about a frustrating 10-15 sec., no start just a grunt.
Waited about a min., no start just a grunt.
Waited another frustrating 3-4 mins.................. STARTS RIGHT UP LIKE NOTHING IS WRONG!!

As you know, I replaced the battery, the started, EGR and TWheel as a result of this "symptom" before.

When it "grunts", its all the world like a discharged battery. Wants to think about starting, but can't even turn the engine over one time. No "clicking" of the solenoid, like you might get with a dead battery. Just the grunt try to start.

The only thing I can see that has changed in all this time of challenges, is the voltage display on the dash. As I've mentioned before, all the 4+ years of having the truck, the display on voltage would read 14V. Never changed .

When I first started having a problem, I noticed that the voltage readout has changed to 13 volts. When I start it up, it show 12v and very quickly jumps back to 13v. Does not change with A/C, Lights, heater, radio, everything I can turn on.....just stays at 13v.

ANY ideas what the heck is going on??
 

1shadowsabre

Well-Known Member
Oct 18, 2015
699
254
Truck Year
2015
Is the battery charging while you are driving or does it discharge and you have to charge or jump the truck it to get it started?
 

Frank246

Member
Feb 20, 2019
75
24
Truck Year
2015
Battery seems to be getting charged. Never have had to jump the truck and when it does decide to start it starts strong.
 

GearHead

Active Member
Sep 13, 2016
351
119
Truck Year
2014
Well, first things first, get that heater core replaced and the leak stopped. While it is in the shop have them check the starter relay.

Good luck.
 

Robstiles

New Member
Jan 27, 2020
1
0
Truck Year
2016
I seem to be having the same problem. If I charge the battery to full charge it starts fine. But something seems to be running it down.
 

Frank246

Member
Feb 20, 2019
75
24
Truck Year
2015
Unlike a typical battery charge issue, when the voltage checks high until a load is applied, this symptom is just the opposite.
Engine can’t even turn over once and then starts up strong with no problem?

The time between the two events may be as small as 10 sec. up to 5 minutes, with multiple start tries in between.

once it decides to start up, one would think it never had an issue. Just fires up fine.
 

Frank246

Member
Feb 20, 2019
75
24
Truck Year
2015
As my mother use to say "back again, like a bad penny"!
At any rate, this saga is getting really old.
The truck continues to "sometimes", refuse to start.
The sounds have changes, AFTER I had the s/w update installed for the computer. Now, instead of just a "grunt" and not even one engine revolution, the engine tries to start and gets maybe 3-5 revolutions while sounding like something metal is grinding. Really sounds bad.

Again, this no start may only happen the first time or may take two or three times, but when it does decide to start up, that instance starts up with no problem/quick and nice as usual!???

Again, still no start at times as before, BUT, the attempt and sounds has changed after having the tone ring s/w update installed.

HERE IS A QUESTION MAYBE SOMEONE CAN ANSWER: I reviewed the paper work from Dallas when we were stuck waiting for a new started and tone ring install. The paperwork says nothing about replacing the "sensor" for the tone ring. I'm just wondering if:
1. Are both the tone ring and sensor supposed to be replaced at the same time?
2. IF the sensor is replaced will it show on the repair order? (my RO shows nothing other than just the tone ring).

Any ideas, again, would be appreciated.

PS: Tried to attached the sound file off my phone of the engine attempting to start, but while a short file, it's 21mb and to large to load.
 

1shadowsabre

Well-Known Member
Oct 18, 2015
699
254
Truck Year
2015
The Crankshaft Positioning Sensor is a separate item and is not covered under any recalls. It is not installed along with the tone ring unless it sustained damage when the tone ring delaminates.
 

Frank246

Member
Feb 20, 2019
75
24
Truck Year
2015
Soooooooooooooo...... IF it is damaged and IF it was not replaced, would it be suspect in this "no start" scenario?
 

GearHead

Active Member
Sep 13, 2016
351
119
Truck Year
2014
Soooooooooooooo...... IF it is damaged and IF it was not replaced, would it be suspect in this "no start" scenario?
OK, you are wanting a more definitive answer.
The Tone Ring is replaced under warranty but the Sensor is a separate charge and if it is not damaged it is not replaced. Your description of symptoms would seem to not indicate a Sensor issue. If and I say If, this truck was in my shop with your description of symptoms I would inspect the starter motor for proper installation and application. Check for secure electrical connection to starter. Also inspection for damage on starter ring gear.
Next I would check the battery to insure that it is an 800CCA or greater AGM style.
Since it is not and these repairs should be under warranty, that is just a suggestion.
Your charging system is again another thing. The digital reading does not read in less than full numbers. When I monitor my scanner my charge rate is 12.9V when the EVIC shows 12V. The 13V reading is anywhere from 13.02 to 13.9V. The 14V reading is no more than 14.2V. When I put in my new 910CCA battery the reading is 12V and scanner shows 12.9V, with or without loads.
Get that truck to a dealer who's tech's you trust as soon as possible.
 

1shadowsabre

Well-Known Member
Oct 18, 2015
699
254
Truck Year
2015
Soooooooooooooo...... IF it is damaged and IF it was not replaced, would it be suspect in this "no start" scenario?
Smarter people than me will chime in on internet diagnostics! Are there any Diagnostic Codes to help narrow it down?
 

Frank246

Member
Feb 20, 2019
75
24
Truck Year
2015
The battery is where we started this problem. With the no start/failure to do more than "grunt", it certainly seemed like a bad battery. Since it was the original battery, 7 years old, we replaced it with a 900 cca AGM one and for two days, no problem. Then is was back again.

There has never been any cell code for anything on this truck. When it fails to start, no code of any type. I even run the OBDMX+ with AlphaOBD and nothing comes up.

One additional thing that "seems" to beginning to show up is that if "seems" that the problem happens after the truck has been driven for a while and certainly up to op temp, THEN cools down for maybe a couple of hours, but not cold, it happens. This has been the case in maybe at least 75% of the time. May just be a fact that I end up starting at those intervals most often, but does happen much more when cool and not cold. It has only happened maybe twice when set overnight vers this sudo cool down time period.

I guess I find it most interesting that the "sound" of the failure is VERY different after the 58 s/w update. Prior to the update there we at least 10-12 failure to starts with the engine just sort of grunting without even able to turn the engine over one time. SINCE the s/w update, ALL the start failures are the 3-5 sec "metal grinding" type of start attempt. Just seems strange that the sounds changed dramatically after the s/w update.
 
Top