Pile of kits on Amazon but depending on the model, you’d have to do a radio that can relay to the actual radio in the dash, the screen is typically just a display
Unfortunately insurance is a crook no matter what level coverage you have. When the tree fell on mine, they paid 8k in repairs to fix it and the truck couldn’t have been worth more than double that. But they paid it none the less instead of total loss.
I mean if you have the space and time, parting it out makes the most sense. A lot of the second gen guys would pay for the interior and the rears/frame someone could use. Shit the computers alone you could bring at least a grand in selling them used. I paid 200 for a used tail light pre Covid...
When mine failed, the alternator locked up, and I could spin the motor backwards, but not in proper rotation. Pooped the belt off and it fired right up. Learned that after a new starter AND OEM battery. Not a cheap lesson for me lol
Unplug the glow plug relay on the passenger side of the engine bay. Can’t remember which one of mine failed but it broke off trying to remove. Found that trick out and just a fair warning, if it’s below 35 plug it in. The colder it gets the more it hates starting lol
If you have the security gateway module, you would need to bypass it for it to work, if it’s pre sgwm then it should work fine if the user had luck with it
Could be the sensor bad, can’t remember what year they did away with it… if you had one it would be front of drivers side on the head with a 5/8” rubber line coming off it and going back to your intake tube preturbo. Could have came loose from that connection or at the sensor itself. Or oiled up...
My problem ended up being a transmission tuning issue. Had to reset clutch values a few times but that code isn’t for a map issue it’s for the crank case vent system. Do you have a oil catch can installed?
Glad to hear it! I did have another leak but it was from the shotty work my body shop did. They replaced my cab roof and one of the pinch welds wasn’t sealed properly causing the water to fill that space also but it was a fluke from a repair so I never felt the need to mention it till now lol
As far as I know, cause I have the same leaking area, no one makes aftermarket. You have to buy the whole oem piece and undo hose clamp for the chinsy pos to come apart and use just the turbo henn connection and 90
Oh and the plastic “silencer” in the hot pipe going down to the intercooler. It’s held on with hose clamps. I’d say that could have a crack or failed joint. Just thinking of the free and easier things to look at.
Typically a boost leak will get worse as the boost builds pressure. If you have a pin hole water leak in your hose, it dribbles out when you shut the hose off and it loses pressure, but when you apply pressure the stream grows. The rubber seal at the turbo outlet for the hot side pipe can hold...