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I know first hand with my push to start that there's "cycle times" so to speak. From my tone wheel failure days it'll crank for way longer than you'd want it to. Also probably what's going on here

You have to really know the tone you're listening for to hear it. Good way to test lift pump is to purge water from the fuel filter. Per the instructions you open the drain valve on cartridge housing then cycle ignition where it creates pressure and pushes out any water and some fuel from the...

Yep that's where I found all the questionable coding too. Could've turned off my own gov systems 🤣

I did as well with some rubber hose to pop onto the hiem joints. later got alpha obd and you can just program your own height values and do it without the hardware. Of course the latter was found after the cold climate got the better of the air system

Submit Repair proof to fca for reimbursement. Same happened to of; pre recall failure. Year later had the option to submit documentation

Cool that you did it; but it's a recalled and warrantied repair. You may be able to submit for reimbursement on the parts but because you did it yourself you're limited. It's unfortunate that it's a trans split job for tone wheel/crank position sensor but every Truck out there will be...

11v isn't going to start your Truck, charge, jump or replace your battery and go from there

Affirmative, same shit, so every 115k give or take you'll have a failure and have to split the transmission

Also curious what you mean by unexpectedly high maintenance costs? 100$ oil change at 9k interval, and a 40$ fuel filter ~annual? Differentials, and well that's all. Other than getting screwed with diesel prices the actual maintenance costs are at or below norm

Yeaaaa ain't got one of those, my used oil isn't sooty bs. And it goes straight back into the clean 2.5 from the past oil change. Accounting for that and the pretty fine filtration of the ecodiesel's fuel filter I wasn't worried to much about causing injector issues unless I tried dumping it in...

January I was having excess noise from my pump especially if below 1/4 tank like it was cavatating. Late winter after a few months running #1. This was back in February and I had the dealer order a pump, was supposed to be a week ended up being 3 months. I said screw it honestly wasn't worth (to...

I just came to chat about this; I was having excess noise from my pump especially if below 1/4 tank like it was cavatating. Late winter after a few months running #1. This was back in February and I had the dealer order a pump, was supposed to be a week ended up being 3 months. I said screw it...

Well cold engine and a patient hour racking my knuckles I got er done. Bunch of wd40 did the trick. 1/4" breaker bar with extension and 8mm deep well (Make sure the hex is full length or most of the socket to fully seat the hex, Stanley's weren't, ol harbor freight Pittsburgh was though.) The...

And dealer installed crate engines get 3 year Warranty to boot

Well just ticking 163k had this little guy show up. Guess I'll order one up and try it..

Yes sir that would be tone wheel or crank position sensor failure. You're at the target mileage.

It doesn't hold up in cold climates, it's a flawed system with no dryer. Vacuumed and nitrogen charged but atmospherically vented, so temp swings it brings in moisture which corrodes the valve body of the compressor, freeze thaw cycles and not fully seated valves constantly screws up the pump...

Absolutely Work them. Mine went on a diet about 80k so egr cooler can't leak from a box in storage 🤣 dealer bugs me about open recalls for that and aem though gets a good chuckle. After a year off heavy tow duty I finally had to see if old girl still had it. Miss the factory air suspension though.

About 1600 idle, 3400 driving 154k and the only actual failure being the tone wheel I'm not complaining much but the cost effectiveness of Repair definitely goes out the window when the crate gives so much more bang for the buck. I wouldn't have much problem throwing a fresh motor at it knowing...