15 Eco Tradesman SERVICE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL

[msiege5212]

Hello all, Matt from middle GA. I joined the Eco family in June swapping from a 14 Jeep GC. Love the gas mileage and ride quality, not enjoying the emissions related issues. It is just a base model 2015 RAM 1500 3.0 Tradesman Quad cab 4x2 3.55 open rear, 6'4" bed with 120k on it...perfect canvas to build on. Its paid off and I plan to keep it a while and tow light duty (flat trailer and racecar).

So far I have added an AFE MF XP Stg 2 CAI, Nitro Dif cover, ebay delete plates and pipes, and SFT Stage 2 All in one Tune. I do have a PPE trans pan to install still. Also tempted to do an intake manifold clean or replacement and check on the turbo water feed hose for leaking in the future. I'm not afraid of any mechanic work even though this is my first Diesel, but I do have a car seat so downtime needs to be minimal or weekend jobs.

Non performance things include weathertech mats that came with it, smoked headlight/tailight housings and LEDs everywhere, including light bar fogs and a button under the shift knob, and of course a tonneau cover and knock off Rebel grille. I want to do a uconnect 8.4 or even bigger and sub someday. I just learned about Alpha OBD too. I noticed my step bar brackets have been crushed so I have not been able to rebend them back and am unsure if the newer superseded brackets would bolt up (Anyone?)

Soon after buying I got a glow plug code and the Def Fluid level sensor fail and ensuing no start message so I lived with the push start button for a couple months before getting tuned. Ran great for a while, but I now have the dreaded Service Electronic Throttle Control code and sometimes low oil pressure when starting. I got the code once before when I forgot to plug in a sensor on the battery, I took in to dealer to get the EGR cooler recall...(which was leaking) and that cleared the code for a while (weeks). Reflashing the truck clears the code but it comes back after 10-15 minutes and back to limp mode. Flashing back to stock means no start due to Def Fluid sensor/EPA mandates.

So far I have tried cleaning grounds, TB, intake piping, Map sensor, securing wiring connectors/pins, and tried an adjusted tune from SFT to no avail so I have started throwing parts at it by ordering a new accelerator pedal $130 and map sensor $75. I think next is the throttle body at $300 and maybe a new battery after that. Looking to hear your thoughts on Service Electronic Throttle Control....and any other preventative maintenance recommendations.

 

[jcj1576]

Based on previous recommendations from the site, from a preventive maintenance perspective you should remove the slow death foam from both sides of the engine on top of the valve covers. You should also remove the insulated metal cover from the high pressure fuel pump on the front of the engine. These steps decrease heat build up and damage to wiring and hoses.

Get a OBD scan/reset tool, because a lot of the codes seem to come up randomly and are not something the dealer can fix. Having the ability to reset on your own will save a lot of time and money.

With 120k miles, and the oil pressure errors you keep seeing, it may be a good idea to change the oil and perform an oil analysis. I plan to do the same, and I will be using Blackstone Labs.

Don't wait to change your oil at 10k miles and instead plan on it around 5k, especially with 120k miles. The experts on here recommend T6 oil from Menards, and Fumoto-F106 filters from Amazon.

In the summer months you can substitue distilled water for DEF at a ratio of approximately 2:1. In the winter, reduce this to 1:1 to prevent freezing.

There are far more technical guys on here than me, but these are some of the most common recommendations to increase longevity of these trucks.

 

[msiege5212]

Still no codes on my scanner. Changed fuel filter to oem and a metal plug. Replaced accelerator pedal and map sensor...no luck on fixing service electronic throttle code though. Thinking about trying oil pressure sensor next, rockauto has a tb for half of oem...

 

[msiege5212]

The problems keep coming....i think I got the crankshaft tone ring failure today, took off aggressively from a stop heard a ping and got a bunch of codes and a non running truck.

 

[CBSnook]

The problems keep coming....i think I got the crankshaft tone ring failure today, took off aggressively from a stop heard a ping and got a bunch of codes and a non running truck.

I cant figure out how to trouble shoot mine theres too many things and looking for answers no one posts a resolution

 

[msiege5212]

it was the crankshaft tone ring, lost about a 1 inch section of the magnet material and it was cracked everywhere else. new one on for $46 including expedited shipping and it was good to go. Also added the PPE deep pan and Redline ATF fluid. All is well, I tried fixing my EGR block off plate that has one hole with a broken off tap stuck in it but no luck, I popped a freeze plug and RTV under it and it still throwing the code but runs way better, I actually have power. Need to take the turbo off to have a chance at drilling it out right or maybe just get a shop to weld it on...good enough for now cause most say you have to remove the cab to do that.

 

[CBSnook]

it was the crankshaft tone ring, lost about a 1 inch section of the magnet material and it was cracked everywhere else. new one on for $46 including expedited shipping and it was good to go. Also added the PPE deep pan and Redline ATF fluid. All is well, I tried fixing my EGR block off plate that has one hole with a broken off tap stuck in it but no luck, I popped a freeze plug and RTV under it and it still throwing the code but runs way better, I actually have power. Need to take the turbo off to have a chance at drilling it out right or maybe just get a shop to weld it on...good enough for now cause most say you have to remove the cab to do that.

what is a bunch of codes? I had a buddy bring over a snap on scanner mine has low fuel rail pressure specifically only reaching a max of 583 PSI. Gonna buy the tool to see if i have a wide open injector keeping it from building pressure or if my cp4 failed. terrifed my cp4 detonated and i need to replace entire fuel system

 

[msiege5212]

it was service transmission, low oil pressure and i think low voltage when it broke, but happy to correctly diagnose it. It will crank nonstop and never fire and you will have to turn the key off to stop it.

In other news i fixed my service electronic throttle control code finally, it was a boost leak on the intercooler pipe going into the throttle body....rubber ring gasket tore, so i just added 2 layers of metal tape around the throttle body and finally after almost a year i have stage 2 full boost.