KINGKOTA78
New Member
- Sep 9, 2023
- 16
- 1
- Truck Year
- 2014
Hello everyone,
I purchased my first eco diesel in February of 23 and absolutely love it. Had very few issue with this truck. Truck needed a thermostat, and the hot side CAC piping exploded due to previous janky repair(will post pic). Todays post is about the repair I did today. Found my surge tank was a-little low on coolant about a week ago. I filled it to max fill line and look again yesterday and found it to be low again. I didn’t have my pressure test kit on hand so had to do some old school looking for the leak. Found a lot of coolant around the thermostat and water pump. Removed plastic cover over engine and found the leak coming from a-little plastic tube on the water pump. Did some digging online and found this was the water bypass valve. Local dealership had one, went and purchased item and being tear down. It’s a pretty easy repair. You’ll need a 8mm socket on a 1/4in ratchet, a pair of vice grips and a pocket prybar/ screwdrivers helps! I drained about 1.5 gallons from cooling system and this seem to be enough to do the repair. Remove cold side CAC piping for intake and I found if you move the upper radiator hose clamp up and pull it down the hose a-little it gives you the necessary room to do the repair, the whole hose doesn’t have to be moved just the clamp itself. Remove the 2 8mm bolts and wiggle the valve up and down to loose the grip on the other end of the valve. The right side of the valve is held in place with just an oring. After getting it as loose as I could, I place the vice grips on the valve and pulled straight. It’s important to pull straight out because the valve just pushes in a pipe on the right side and it seems it could be broken fairly easily. After removing valve, I took some Scott bright and cleaned the mating surfaces. Covered the oring in assembly lube, I mean really coat the right side so it slides in place easily. Put the valve in place and tight the bolts just enough to hold it in place, might have to play with the tightness of the bolts to get the other side fully seated. Once bolts are taunt push the right side of the valves in places. I had to take a blunt object due to the tightness of the spot to fully seat the valve. Ensure the the valve seats flush in the opposing pipe and the tab on the valve is almost touching the pipe. Refilled coolant and cranked truck. Ran truck and found the leak was repair. Cleaned off engine to ensure I’ll be able to see the next leak easily !
I purchased my first eco diesel in February of 23 and absolutely love it. Had very few issue with this truck. Truck needed a thermostat, and the hot side CAC piping exploded due to previous janky repair(will post pic). Todays post is about the repair I did today. Found my surge tank was a-little low on coolant about a week ago. I filled it to max fill line and look again yesterday and found it to be low again. I didn’t have my pressure test kit on hand so had to do some old school looking for the leak. Found a lot of coolant around the thermostat and water pump. Removed plastic cover over engine and found the leak coming from a-little plastic tube on the water pump. Did some digging online and found this was the water bypass valve. Local dealership had one, went and purchased item and being tear down. It’s a pretty easy repair. You’ll need a 8mm socket on a 1/4in ratchet, a pair of vice grips and a pocket prybar/ screwdrivers helps! I drained about 1.5 gallons from cooling system and this seem to be enough to do the repair. Remove cold side CAC piping for intake and I found if you move the upper radiator hose clamp up and pull it down the hose a-little it gives you the necessary room to do the repair, the whole hose doesn’t have to be moved just the clamp itself. Remove the 2 8mm bolts and wiggle the valve up and down to loose the grip on the other end of the valve. The right side of the valve is held in place with just an oring. After getting it as loose as I could, I place the vice grips on the valve and pulled straight. It’s important to pull straight out because the valve just pushes in a pipe on the right side and it seems it could be broken fairly easily. After removing valve, I took some Scott bright and cleaned the mating surfaces. Covered the oring in assembly lube, I mean really coat the right side so it slides in place easily. Put the valve in place and tight the bolts just enough to hold it in place, might have to play with the tightness of the bolts to get the other side fully seated. Once bolts are taunt push the right side of the valves in places. I had to take a blunt object due to the tightness of the spot to fully seat the valve. Ensure the the valve seats flush in the opposing pipe and the tab on the valve is almost touching the pipe. Refilled coolant and cranked truck. Ran truck and found the leak was repair. Cleaned off engine to ensure I’ll be able to see the next leak easily !
