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Yep and when they take that intake off it going to look like this.

They could be talking about the manifold Gaskets, but those going bad are extremely rare, its a multi-layer compression Gasket, its wedged at both mating surfaces.

What intake gasket, They are all O-Rings.

Do the OA before repairs. Its just extremely difficult to get all the lube out, Just about everything needs replacing, Hoses, Radiator, Exchanger, 3-way Valve, Etc, and Hours of flushing out of engine.

$6000.00 high IMO. I take they are replacing the entire coolant system including the radiator. I would Stop any repairs until Oil sample is taken and send to lab for Analysis, If coolant is found in triple digits PPM Most likely wear has resulted and if wear is found in the sample the engine is...

Its the Pressure, the Oil exchanger has failed, Generally the Oil pressure is much higher then coolant pressure, So Oil leaks into coolant, when no pressure exist, it possible with engine off for the coolant to leak into oil. I take it the 2015 is out of warranty.

In some cases its New Engine, Its extremely difficult to remove all the Oil that has leaked in the Coolant, Worst yet if Coolant leaked into crankcase.

No, I errored, for every 24 miles city Stop & go 8 miles Hwy that 33%.

NO........ You still will be creating Soot, if you cannot drive HWY 15% at 8 Miles plus problems will develop, In other words 24 miles city Stop and go require 8+ miles Hwy Speeds. or your Bank Account will be taking big withdraws in long term Ownership.

I just don't sponsor pulling wagons (Van) with 1/2 Tons far and fast over 6000, its just not enough Iron IMO. That being said 55MPH on flats and skill at pulling is up to the individual. Take the 6000+ wagon (Van) across ND,SD,MT,WY,UT,ID,MN,IA on 30+ Winds will diffidently change your mind...

3K miles and OAs diet for the rest of your ownership.

The 3.0 Seems to do OK in HWY, if everything checks out before you leave you should be OK, I would change the lube and both Fuel and oil filters, and make sure you have ALFA+ the MX OBDII. On Edit, The 2016 will allow lower concentrations of DEF Mix 2 Gallons Distilled water to every 1 Gallon...

Dirty fuel filter related to DPF % is equal to a hurricane in MN in January. The fuel creates the soot that plugs the DPF, lack of Fuel= less Soot, Plus lack of fuel would lower the Fuel PSI to the Point the COV in The CP4 would stay closed, and the Truck would NOT start or have performance...

Their No benefit other than to remove the 28LBS of Muffler and louder.

Yep...gofishingup, Their are the naysayers but in the end, at some point the 3.0VM sucks on your Bank account into 1000s in long term ownership in DD Use. HWY use reduces the risk considerably and missing parts is mandatory in long term ownership.

Upgrade to less Parts, or sell and buy Gas. If you like hassle and money withdrawals monthly Keep. Your driving style is not recommended for Bluetech DSL's

DBM, Stand Your ground You are 1 of 10,000+ 3.0VMs that have puke.

The ALPHA can be used on any Ram 2006+ The Tazer looks appealing, I could not find the option to Stationary De-soot on the Tazer IMO that's required for all 3.0 Owners (ALPHA) works on all Ram 6.7 DSL's 2007.5+

Urea is mixed with Deionized Water at the rate of 33% Urea 67% DI water. the DEF injector is house in the mixing chamber in the exhaust downstream of the DPF and is Part of the SCR (Selective catalyst reduction) Now if its the Urea Sensor its the 1st one ever. I've NOT read 1 failure in 3...

A Tune won't change what failed, and if it is a new engine who knows who rebuild it, The 2014-19 motor is out of Production.