Burning the old oil?

[SeanPwnery]

This may seem outrageous to the layman, but I've seen people with older rigs running 12-valves, and IDI's change their oil, and use what they drained as fuel. Seems crazy, but also, it seems to work for those. I know our fuel systems are really sensitive, and our fuel filters down down to as little as 3-micron, but I was curious if any of you actually did this? I doubt I'd venture into pouring it into a near-empty tank, but what about a near-full one, and diluting the mix with that 2 and a half gallons you drained out on the oil change?

This isn't an encouragement to lunch your vehicle, but curious if anyone here's done it - no sense in pouring it down the recycler's drain if we can burn it for ourselves.

 

[John Jensen]

That's old school, before EPA and emissions systems/equipment. Many would add an ashless 2-stroke outboard motor oil for it's lubricity. Adding drained oil was probably doing the same thing but dirtier.
Try it in today's close tolerance, high-pressure injected engines and I believe you'll have codes, dirty or clogged injectors, filters, etc.

 

[BTdriver]

I tried doing that on my old 6.5 GMC once, it didn't run well on that tank. Took a couple tanks to clear out deposits and run same as before. Later, I played around with 2 stroke oil and settled on 1oz/10gal. Any more wouldn't quite run right.

 

[jdn112011]

This may seem outrageous to the layman, but I've seen people with older rigs running 12-valves, and IDI's change their oil, and use what they drained as fuel. Seems crazy, but also, it seems to work for those. I know our fuel systems are really sensitive, and our fuel filters down down to as little as 3-micron, but I was curious if any of you actually did this? I doubt I'd venture into pouring it into a near-empty tank, but what about a near-full one, and diluting the mix with that 2 and a half gallons you drained out on the oil change?

This isn't an encouragement to lunch your vehicle, but curious if anyone here's done it - no sense in pouring it down the recycler's drain if we can burn it for ourselves.

Yeah I do half of the time, I usually keep the old t6 2.5 jug so it's clean, and dump a gallon back into the fuel tank twice. It actually helped my cp4 as I had some cavitation noise before and not since I was doing that. I've got 201k.. and about 6300 hours for what it's worth. Also on a diet

 

[JD9560]

I've been running diesels on my farm f over 40 years and even with the older engines quality clean fuel was always a priority. Even now in my Ram I run premium fuel which costs ten cents per gallon more but isn’t much when you’re paying $3 to $4 per gallon. I can’t believe anyone would be cheap enough to run their engine oil 5 to 10 thousand miles and then try to save a few gallons of fuel by dumping this crap in their fuel tank. Just my opinion.

 

[jdn112011]

I've been running diesels on my farm f over 40 years and even with the older engines quality clean fuel was always a priority. Even now in my Ram I run premium fuel which costs ten cents per gallon more but isn’t much when you’re paying $3 to $4 per gallon. I can’t believe anyone would be cheap enough to run their engine oil 5 to 10 thousand miles and then try to save a few gallons of fuel by dumping this crap in their fuel tank. Just my opinion.

Today's diesel lubricity is shit from what it was with sulfer. Little synthetic oil diluted into the fuel ain't going to hurt it, like op said it's a fine enough fuel filter. No different than running a synthetic petroleum additive for diesel lubricity. But it's otherwise waste, not like trying to save the 4$ on a gallon of fuel is the worthwhile justification.

 

[JD9560]

That’s where the fuel with additives comes in. If you think you need to add a little oil to your fuel at least use new oil.

 

[F. P. Thompson]

I would not add any used oil to my Ecodiesel as my dealer told me early on about the people having injector issues and they recommended changing the fuel filter at every engine oil change. Our engines were developed for use in Europe and the fuel there is better quality and USA fuel can have asphaltenes in it that clog injectors. I have followed the advise and had had no issues with my engine with over 122K miles on it. I have found that since I do a lot of highway miles the fuel quality is important, my mileage can run as high as 27 mpg across Pa. with its hills to as little as 21 if I got low quality fuel. I did use some additive my brother gave me after he got out of trucking that did help mpg sightly but using good quality fuel is the best way to get good mileage. There is 1 name brand fuel that runs so poorly I avoid it completely. Just my 2 cents

 

[John Jensen]

I would not add any used oil to my Ecodiesel as my dealer told me early on about the people having injector issues and they recommended changing the fuel filter at every engine oil change. Our engines were developed for use in Europe and the fuel there is better quality and USA fuel can have asphaltenes in it that clog injectors. I have followed the advise and had had no issues with my engine with over 122K miles on it. I have found that since I do a lot of highway miles the fuel quality is important, my mileage can run as high as 27 mpg across Pa. with its hills to as little as 21 if I got low quality fuel. I did use some additive my brother gave me after he got out of trucking that did help mpg sightly but using good quality fuel is the best way to get good mileage. There is 1 name brand fuel that runs so poorly I avoid it completely. Just my 2 cents

The best fossil fuel available has less lubricity than European fuel and the quality varies considerably in many areas. It has been attributed to the CP4 failures, thus the recommendations to use a lubricity-adding additive.

 

[jdn112011]

I would not add any used oil to my Ecodiesel as my dealer told me early on about the people having injector issues and they recommended changing the fuel filter at every engine oil change. Our engines were developed for use in Europe and the fuel there is better quality and USA fuel can have asphaltenes in it that clog injectors. I have followed the advise and had had no issues with my engine with over 122K miles on it. I have found that since I do a lot of highway miles the fuel quality is important, my mileage can run as high as 27 mpg across Pa. with its hills to as little as 21 if I got low quality fuel. I did use some additive my brother gave me after he got out of trucking that did help mpg sightly but using good quality fuel is the best way to get good mileage. There is 1 name brand fuel that runs so poorly I avoid it completely. Just my 2 cents

That dealer was just wanting to sell fuel Filters. It's a waste to change at 8-10k and I think you know that as well. The injectors are fine, and it's low enough flow demand you'll probably never see the hpfp starving due to filter restriction.

 

[JD9560]

Ya at about $200 per change. I’d change my own with an aftermarket that’s probably better than the Mopar but would worry about warranty.

 

[F. P. Thompson]

I do change my own filters and buy them in multiple packs. The dealer knew that when I talked with them. My dealer is a straight shooter and only services my vehicle for warranty and recall issues. Sorry to burst your bubble jdn 112011.

 

[SeanPwnery]

So.. as this topic seems to be stirring up a debate, I'll drop a few figures here as I've been toying with this idea of "black diesel" for quite a while now.

About 20 years ago or so, I owned a 79 Mercedes 300D ... made the same year I was born. My tailpipe always smelled like fried fish, or tacos with WVO I ran through it. This "Black diesel" thing was something kind-of new to me, but it worked on a similar premise.

Here's the poop on filters -

* oil filter is typically 20-30 microns
* fuel filter for the Mopar OE model is rated at 3-microns

Black diesel centrifuge setups will filter down to 2-microns with a proper filter. This means the oil you drained and ran through, has been filtered to a tighter tolerance than the fuel filter you have in your rig already, while pumping synthetically made diesel that the EPA forced on us since all this low-sulphur emissions nonsense began. Again ... I'm not advocating draining your pan and dumping it right into the tank - nor am I encouraging running a full tank of the stuff, but when you go and drop off your waste oil at the local O'reilly's and Autozones and whatnots - a lot of those guys pumping out their tanks are turning this stuff into the very thing I'm discussing here. 2.5 gallons of what you drained in a tank full of diesel and a couple ounces of Howes Meaner Cleaner was my idea of burning what the engine is gonna piss out anyway... how's that much different than the EPA forcing gasoline emissions systems that forces the s**t from the exhaust right back down the throat of the intake (EGR) ?

Food for thought.