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Cleaned map sensor and egr tube wow!

New to the site and my eco diesel I bought at 40,000 miles a month ago now has 45,000 and I decided to clean the map sensor and egr tube..... holy crap there was a lot of crap on the egr tube and looking inside the plenum, it was caked in there!! How are these things Gana look inside with 200,000 miles on them? I have the banks bullet tunner on mine and I'm sure it's not helping anything but wow kinda freaked me out. Just thought I would share

Banks does not add to the soot, take it to dealer and complain that its surging and loosing coolant, the EGR and Plenum will be replace, do this every 30-40K miles (BC it will be completely sooted up) and hope your rotating mass survives until 120K and dump the bit***.

Make sure you collect the $$$ (settlement) from FCA along the time frame.

Engine's are still failing, last week I was contacted be 2 more owners on 3rd engine... One of the owners has had his DPF de-soot by Me 2 times in 3 Years and his Last OA had elevated Iron and Aluminum. Last engine lasted 18K miles.... it failed shortly after the 3rd oil change, Wear material are stored somewhere in that block and when you change the lube its BOOM and unless you are doing OA trends NO notice will be given. the 3.0 is either Hero or Zero Status, and don't take the bait the 1500diesel.BS promotes that Most EDs are trouble free, its just a few cheerleaders with keystroke love affairs with their ED. I notice that even 97hmcs has left the dark side and commenting that the engine is problematic.

Now way for the 3.0 VM to survive , it failure rates are directly related to QC at Cento.

Fait has Waaaaaaaaaay better power plants at FPT dump that 3.0 at Cento, and modify that 4.0 and stick that engine in the Eco.
 
After cleaning both my MAP sensor and my EGR tube. I put everything back. I was very excited to see what a difference it was going to make. Well, bad news now it seems as though my truck is mis firing. I have checked and rechecked all connections and everything. Has anyone else had this issue. Please help!! Thank you in advanced.

Follow the recommendation in Post 21 to have both the Plenum and EGR replace, have the tech check the intake valves for warping and if they are you should demand engine replacement.
 
Follow the recommendation in Post 21 to have both the Plenum and EGR replace, have the tech check the intake valves for warping and if they are you should demand engine replacement.
I have 135k on my engine. Nothing was wrong until I cleaned both the MAP sensor and the EGR tube. I am very worried. I am picking up a new MAP sensor now hoping I damaged it while cleaning it. That is what I am hoping for anyways. Like I said before any help is appreciated.
 
Check inside the intake Plenum to see if the swirl valves are cake with soot, when they get caked to the point of blockage the intake head valve(s) will warp, from excessive heat.
 
Check inside the intake Plenum to see if the swirl valves are cake with soot, when they get caked to the point of blockage the intake head valve(s) will warp, from excessive heat.
Is this an instant thing.. like I said the minute I started it after cleaning the sensor and the EGR tube it would not go past 1500 rpm without bogging and sounding like it is missing
 
A tune from Green Diesel Engineering will stop all the build-up in the intake and keep the engine oil much cleaner.

Yes. However, how does the GDE effect your ability to pass inspection (i.e. smog test)?
 
For what it's worth, in the state of North Carolina, you only need a safety inspection when you have a diesel engine. No emissions testing is required.
 
I have 135k on my engine. Nothing was wrong until I cleaned both the MAP sensor and the EGR tube. I am very worried. I am picking up a new MAP sensor now hoping I damaged it while cleaning it. That is what I am hoping for anyways. Like I said before any help is appreciated.
I cleaned my MAP sensor and EGR tube recently and have a check engine light and rough idle now. Any update on your situation? Did you just replace the sensor? TIA
 
map sensor voltage not changing=bad map sensor
catalytic converter =poss sensor
fuel quantity low=poss fuel filter or pump
 
Carl,
If he has a bad map sensor would that generate the other two codes? I wouldn't think all three items would go bad at once
 
I cleaned my MAP sensor and EGR tube recently and have a check engine light and rough idle now. Any update on your situation? Did you just replace the sensor? TIA

What did you use to clean the MAP sensor? Non-chlorinated brake cleaner, carb cleaner, electrical parts cleaner, or something else?

I ask because I was just told by SofaKingTuned to do this so, I'm curious what you used.
 
they make a map sensor cleaner

{edited}
Actually I saw they make a MAF sensor cleaner. I have not found a specific MAP sensor cleaner.

A Napa article says to use electric parts cleaner. Other articles say electric parts cleaner, non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and yet some articles said carb cleaner is fine. I'm still curious what was used on anyone's failed MAP sensor. i was planning on using carb cleaner.
 
Brake cleaner....... and Mighty Vs2Mighty Foam.png
 
By tune do you mean a delete ?
With the GDE tune there is no need to touch any hardware on the vehicle. However, it is only legal in 194 countries, not the US at this time. We will have CARB/EPA certified tunes in 3-4 months.
 
With the GDE tune there is no need to touch any hardware on the vehicle. However, it is only legal in 194 countries, not the US at this time. We will have CARB/EPA certified tunes in 3-4 months.
Is it available in canada legal or not?
 
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