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Spun Bearing and Rebuilding

T

The Cam Beck

New Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2019
Messages
8
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2
Truck Year
2015
Hello all. Back in November 2019 my EcoDiesel spun a bearing @ 183*** miles. It was a very sad day to say the least. Its been sitting since then because of life events, building a house and getting married, but now I (we) are looking at rebuilding and "bulletproofing" the truck for longevity. The truck will be used mostly for pulling a 16ft landscape trailer, pull behind camper, and weekend use.

So the question is, what is your list to for rebuilding and bulletproofing?

From what I have I read and looked at so far this is the list I have come up with :

  • Tune and full delete w/ 3" straight pipe
  • New Turbo
  • Banks High Flow intake
  • Throttle Valve Delete
  • Upgraded Intercooler w/ piping
  • Oil cooler
  • Catch Can
  • Trans Tune
  • S & B Air Filter
  • Upgraded Trans Pan
Is an upgraded turbo worth it?
Is a compound system worth it ?
Thoughts and concerns ?
 
Last edited:
The Cam Beck said:
Hello all. Back in November 2019 my EcoDiesel spun a bearing @ 183*** miles. It was a very sad day to say the least. Its been sitting since then because of life events, building a house and getting married, but now I (we) are looking at rebuilding and "bulletproofing" the truck for longevity. The truck will be used mostly for pulling a 16ft landscape trailer, pull behind camper, and weekend use.

So the question is, what is your list to for rebuilding and bulletproofing?

From what I have I read and looked at so far this is the list I have come up with :

  • Tune and full delete w/ 3" straight pipe
  • New Turbo
  • Banks High Flow intake
  • Throttle Valve Delete
  • Upgraded Intercooler w/ piping
  • Oil cooler
  • Catch Can
  • Trans Tune
  • S & B Air Filter
  • Upgraded Trans Pan
Is an upgraded turbo worth it?
Is a compound system worth it ?
Thoughts and concerns ?
Click to expand...
Looks like a list that I used to get when someone brought an engine into my shop for rebuild.

Depending on where you live, emissions test or not, your delete with straight pipe will not work, however if possible will require computer tune. This has limited options.

New turbo, from what I have seen online there are no larger turbos that will work with your ECM for variable vane, would require a tune. If your turbo is simply fried Dales Superstore advertises a new factory turbo for a very reasonable price. No tune required. Which brings me to your compound system, I have not seen one yet, but would require tune.

I am presently running an external oil cooler with remote oil filter, two filters one stock and one external, it does not work as promised and I will be going back to stock and installing a colder opening thermostat in the near future. The cooler thermostat requires a tune.

Banks Intake eliminates the Swirl Valve and the EGR, both very desirable, would definitely require a tune. I have been tossing around this idea for a little while myself except machining for the EGR which would allow me to work around the swirl valve instead of a tune.

Transmission tune works better than expected, highly recommend. Engine tune and transmission tune to stock engine is available from Green Diesel Engineering and I have it on my RAM and my wife's JEEP and like the extra HP and Torque as well as better fuel mileage.

Improved Intercooler would be great, I have looked at that as well. eXtreme Diesel Products offers stock to impressively different from $138 to $1600.

Search the aftermarket for hard engine parts vs. OEM, better prices and availability.

Any increase in transmission fluid capacity is a good thing, along with the OEM plastic pan has the filter built in so is a throw away during filter change. A larger volume aluminum pan normally has a separate filter. Good idea.

I am ambivalent on Catch Can, I have one on my wife's JEEP and I get about one or two ounces of oil at an oil change, 10K miles, so I am sure as to the true benefit. Both our vehicles do a lot of highway time so I feel like we get rid of the crankcase emissions during normal operation.

Use a reputable machine shop for any services, crank grinding, rod resizing or replace all six, valve job, bore & hone, etc.
Good Luck.
 
GearHead said:
Looks like a list that I used to get when someone brought an engine into my shop for rebuild.

Depending on where you live, emissions test or not, your delete with straight pipe will not work, however if possible will require computer tune. This has limited options.

New turbo, from what I have seen online there are no larger turbos that will work with your ECM for variable vane, would require a tune. If your turbo is simply fried Dales Superstore advertises a new factory turbo for a very reasonable price. No tune required. Which brings me to your compound system, I have not seen one yet, but would require tune.

I am presently running an external oil cooler with remote oil filter, two filters one stock and one external, it does not work as promised and I will be going back to stock and installing a colder opening thermostat in the near future. The cooler thermostat requires a tune.

Banks Intake eliminates the Swirl Valve and the EGR, both very desirable, would definitely require a tune. I have been tossing around this idea for a little while myself except machining for the EGR which would allow me to work around the swirl valve instead of a tune.

Transmission tune works better than expected, highly recommend. Engine tune and transmission tune to stock engine is available from Green Diesel Engineering and I have it on my RAM and my wife's JEEP and like the extra HP and Torque as well as better fuel mileage.

Improved Intercooler would be great, I have looked at that as well. eXtreme Diesel Products offers stock to impressively different from $138 to $1600.

Search the aftermarket for hard engine parts vs. OEM, better prices and availability.

Any increase in transmission fluid capacity is a good thing, along with the OEM plastic pan has the filter built in so is a throw away during filter change. A larger volume aluminum pan normally has a separate filter. Good idea.

I am ambivalent on Catch Can, I have one on my wife's JEEP and I get about one or two ounces of oil at an oil change, 10K miles, so I am sure as to the true benefit. Both our vehicles do a lot of highway time so I feel like we get rid of the crankcase emissions during normal operation.

Use a reputable machine shop for any services, crank grinding, rod resizing or replace all six, valve job, bore & hone, etc.
Good Luck.
Click to expand...
I have a 2014 which spun the 3 mains farthest from the oil pump.

I now have all new parts except for rod and main bearings, and a crankshaft. I would dearly love to fit wider mains. Are they available from anywhere?

Any recommendations on where to buy a new crankshaft or is it suck it and see on a Chinese one from ebay?

Any pointers gratefully received.
 
Do not buy the $500 Chinese cranks. 1200 miles and mine broke into 4 pieces. Downshifted going up a hill at 60 with a 50hp tune. Wasn't even hotrodding it. Most every crank that has spun bearings cracks on the main journal. Both of mine were. One truck was running with a rod knock and the other was completely seized up. Both cracked. Do what you can to find a dismantler yard. Both my cranks came out of California. The trucks out there seem to like to burn up. As far as bearings rings and even oversized pistons, I've done good with the ones off eBay. Make sure the new head bolts have the washers. Or go to ARP and have custom M14 studs made. For new rod bolts, ARP has a kit of 12 for a VW v6 the fit perfectly. Just have to use a drill bit on the top of the rod cap to make a slight relief to the taper on the bolt
 
So I deleted my truck. From what I understand is that it does help with engine longevity only because of the fact that you’re removing the soot recirculation aspect. However, the rod bearings and main bearing are still softer metals. So what I would do to “bullet proof” this engine.

1: Rebuild it with better material bearings (if you can source them).
2: delete and tune both ecm and tcm (if your state/city doesn’t have emissions testing).
3:upgrade engine oil pan and Trans pan.
4:upgrade intercooler.
5:upgrade the oil cooler to the new all aluminum one. The original one that comes factory has plastic, and that’s why it ultimately fails (at least on the 2nd gen).
6:Banks high flow intake manifold (you wanna at least clean out the old intake after a delete so the carbon doesn’t get knocked into the engine; causing a false positive on forbidden glitter in the oil).
7: Upgrade the coolant feed line to the turbo.
8:instead of a catch can. I’d do an oil bypass filtration system (especially if you’re gonna keep the emissions intact).
 
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#1.... Oil change, oil change. I change mine at about 7k miles and the oil looks like I just changed it. I should do it closer to 5k, but being all highway miles and the cost of T6 I've been going out a little farther. Rebuilt mine. If you're rebuilding it, definitely align hone the main journals at least if not boring. The factory machining left alot to be desired for trueness. OEM crank, stock new everything else. EGR and dpf delete. I run a 40hp tune, no tcm tune and is my daily driver averaging 75 miles a day to work and home. Wouldn't be a bad idea to run a boost gauge either. For whatever reason, mine gets really unhappy pushing over 30psi of boost
 
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