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Turbo cleaning?

Tremper126

Moderator
Staff member
Feb 15, 2019
908
331
Truck Year
2014
Hey folks,

Sorry I haven’t been as active I started a new job and don’t get good signal!

So I know to replace the turbo it’s recommended the cab come off, but any members out there cleaned one? Did a job in jersey and I pulled my trailer up and back. Fully deleted with 159k. Was running 75-80 in 7th gear with tow haul on and got a weird turbo sound a few times. The best way to describe it, it sounded like a flapping piece of plastic cover panel under the truck when I accelerated. It wasn’t the sutututu after letting off the throttle, it almost sounded like I was over boosting and relieving pressure or chopping the air. Anyways, I dropped out of tow haul mode and the turbo calmed way down and didn’t stay spooled up. Didn’t have my obd to check boost pressure 🤦🏻‍♂️ If I leave it in locked 5th gear at about 55 I can recreate it, but I have never heard it before so it was a little worriesome. Also I have a come and go whirring sound when I decelerate with no rhyme or reason as to when or where it happens that’s why I’m suspecting my turbo being dirty and the veins sticking. Anyways, going to add some stiction eliminator and diesel extreme, and oil and fuel filter change since it’s getting close to that time but just looking for some feedback if anyone had an experience with cleaning it!
 

67_Valiant

Member
Feb 9, 2020
50
15
Truck Year
2015
I have had one apart to the extent of having the shells off, but have not removed the impellers from the center section. They are pretty basic once apart, but it can be a little tricky to get the variable vanes back into the assembly. One other thing to watch for... there is a crush washer/ring between the outer exhaust side shell and the center housing. Mine was stuck together, so I used a screwdriver in the notch to separate the 2, not knowing I was smashing the washer in the process. This ended up leaking badly after assembly, and I had to pull the engine out and throw in a different turbo to fix the leak. It might be less trouble just to replace the turbo with that amount of miles on it. They aren't super pricey. Thought i had a few more pictures, but guess not, so in the meantime, here are a couple youtube links for similar turbos if you decide to do a teardown. I think the 2nd video is the better of the 2


The turbo is a Garrett/Honeywell VGT 2056
 

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Tremper126

Moderator
Staff member
Feb 15, 2019
908
331
Truck Year
2014
Believe I found the root of my noise! I retraced my steps as to what I did before my noise started to occur. When I completed my last oil change, I finally removed my engine foam and blew the top of the engine debris off. I never replaced my foams. Well, the drivers side foam supports the hot side inter cooler hose. It must be hopping up and down allowing boost to escape. The best way I can describe the connection is, when it comes off the turbo, it is the silicone connection to the turbo itself. I’ve searched high and low and can find the complete assembly, the intercooler hoses, the cast piece that bolts to the turbo, but I cannot find the connecting piece itself. Any ideas?967E58E5-F22F-44E2-A4DA-33BD77BE213C.jpeg
 

67_Valiant

Member
Feb 9, 2020
50
15
Truck Year
2015
Believe I found the root of my noise! I retraced my steps as to what I did before my noise started to occur. When I completed my last oil change, I finally removed my engine foam and blew the top of the engine debris off. I never replaced my foams. Well, the drivers side foam supports the hot side inter cooler hose. It must be hopping up and down allowing boost to escape. The best way I can describe the connection is, when it comes off the turbo, it is the silicone connection to the turbo itself. I’ve searched high and low and can find the complete assembly, the intercooler hoses, the cast piece that bolts to the turbo, but I cannot find the connecting piece itself. Any ideas?View attachment 3587

Just an idea. I had one with some fire damage that burned through the rubber. To repair it, I filled all the porous spots with RTV, and then enclosed with a heavy 3" shrink tube. If the connector is the problem, this may not work. Sometimes I see these on ebay used for under $200
 

Tremper126

Moderator
Staff member
Feb 15, 2019
908
331
Truck Year
2014
Right on, mine is the connector itself. I thought about pulling it off and trying to find a new seal but if I had to guess I’d have a better chance of finding a penguin in the Grand Canyon lol
 

Ram_Ba_Lam

New Member
Jan 4, 2019
5
6
Truck Year
2018
Not sure if you’ve figured out a fix or found the connector yet… I was hunting for those connectors for months and when I called MOPAR, you can’t buy just the connector; you have to get the whole tube. I was dealing with the connector on the cold-side charge line at the intake adapter where the intake temp sensor is.

A buddy and I fabricated an adapter that works like a freaking beast with no issues on the cold side charge line. We have our basic design for an adapter for the spot you’re dealing with, but we haven’t fabbed it up yet for testing. Once we have it made I’ll test is for a little bit then we’ll be taking both of our new adapters to a foundry to get cast versions made. Once that’s done, I’ll post them up here for y’all.

I was dealing with these stupid connectors from MOPAR and trying to figure out a fix for about 6 months. I’ll say this about that- just buy the replacement tube/assembly. In my experience, there’s not really anything you can do to get your charge lines to hold without that goofy connector (which is why we’re developing our own thing). Trust me on this one.
 
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