Front Brake UpgradeUpgrade

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jdn112011

Well-Known Member
Oct 18, 2015
1,202
310
83
27
Roseau, MN
Truck Year
2015
30k on the factory oem pads but according to Ram's service and maintenance intervals on the app at 30k it's due for front brake pads, I figured it was time for an upgrade anyways. When I've got any significant payload or a trailer in tow I can tell more in the braking performance than any other characteristics of the drive.

I chose EBC GreenStuff for Truck and SUV in the 7000 series high performance and is also low dust. Because well brake dust sucks.

The ram style brake was a little new to me but still very simple if you've ever done brakes before.
Emergency brake,
air suspension in tire Jack mode
Brake lugs, lift, remove tire.

Many ways to compress the caliper, I've learned to use screwdrivers and the rotor in favor of historically trying to use channel locks or c clamps to collapse it for install once more.
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Insert into the view points and into the rotor vent then pry back towards the outside of the vehicle.
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13mm for the two caliper bolts but you will need either a very narrow crescent wrench, or a 18mm end wrench or an 11/16 worked for me.
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To remove the caliper bolts you will very likely need both. There is factory installed thread sealer that grabs just enough that you need to secure the inner nut.

Then using a large standard screw driver (Used from compressing the caliper piston) to gently pry the outside of the caliper from the Center or either side to brake the seal from the outer pad.20160605_002115.jpg
Then pry the entire caliper from the upper side, (inline with the rotor edge) causing it to rotate at the lower mounting position braking the seal on the inner pad and piston surfaces.
20160604_235718.jpg
You can rest the caliper on the lower control arm without putting tension on the brake lines.
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The factory or existing pads have retaining clips/springs on the outer ears which can either be wiggled off by hand or gently pried and pushed off with a screwdriver then reinstalled on the new pad. This depending on your mileage, age, climate, etc.
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Place new pads into designated locations.
 

jdn112011

Well-Known Member
Oct 18, 2015
1,202
310
83
27
Roseau, MN
Truck Year
2015
20160605_000154.jpg 20160605_000223.jpg
Install caliper once again, fully tighten the two 13mm bolts and make sure that the 18mm nuts are turned back as well insuring everything is tight.

Reinstall tire, lower, torque.

Follow ebc's driving recommendations for brake in instructions.

I opted not to have my rotors milled because of my current mileage and good wear pattern though it is recommended regardless to have the rotors machined.
 

Brokedownbutgood

Active Member
Apr 17, 2016
289
102
28
Truck Year
2015
You should always have your rotors turned or replace them!

If not, your half assing the job and destroying a great brake service.

This is coming from someone who used to do brakes professionally.

Turn them or replace them, but never pad slap them!
 

John

Well-Known Member
Nov 13, 2015
1,186
370
83
jdn, Nice write up. Thanks. Were the old pads like new? It's hard to tell from the pics.
 

jdn112011

Well-Known Member
Oct 18, 2015
1,202
310
83
27
Roseau, MN
Truck Year
2015
Yeah the existing pads had just as much material as the new ones and the rotors were like new with a year of driving. I'm light on the brakes and live in mostly flat region.
 
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jdn112011

Well-Known Member
Oct 18, 2015
1,202
310
83
27
Roseau, MN
Truck Year
2015
@Brokedownbutgood I know it's not the proper way to do it but it was a judgment call I made and I stated that. But I appreciate your feedback and the statement for others that will do brake Services
 

Cwbpiotr

New Member
Aug 31, 2016
12
8
3
Truck Year
2014
Just did mine yesterday. I installed Power Stop Z36 Truck & Tow Caliper Brake Kit all 4 wheels. the original brakes lasted me 74k miles. the new brakes feel good on the truck. also looks a Lil nicer to lol.
 

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jdn112011

Well-Known Member
Oct 18, 2015
1,202
310
83
27
Roseau, MN
Truck Year
2015
Just did mine yesterday. I installed Power Stop Z36 Truck & Tow Caliper Brake Kit all 4 wheels. the original brakes lasted me 74k miles. the new brakes feel good on the truck. also looks a Lil nicer to lol.
Definitely looks a little sportier with the red calipers and all. Never been one for the drilled and slotted either. It's extremely aggressive on pads as well. And only one is really necessary the best research I've come up with. Drilled only or slotted only. And it depends on the pad combo whether it's resilient to heat or not which would promote drilled, or subject to glazing under repetitive stopping where the slots become necessary to wipe on fresh brake surface.

Do you do much for towing? And was it worth the 1000?
 

Cwbpiotr

New Member
Aug 31, 2016
12
8
3
Truck Year
2014
Definitely looks a little sportier with the red calipers and all. Never been one for the drilled and slotted either. It's extremely aggressive on pads as well. And only one is really necessary the best research I've come up with. Drilled only or slotted only. And it depends on the pad combo whether it's resilient to heat or not which would promote drilled, or subject to glazing under repetitive stopping where the slots become necessary to wipe on fresh brake surface.

Do you do much for towing? And was it worth the 1000?
Only cost me $700. I don't tow often but when I tow it's usually heavy and I push the truck. let's just put it this way, I had smoke coming out of the front pads and rotors a couple of times. that's why I'm shocked the original brakes lasted for that long. also got to say there is a difference in the braking. I had 2 idiots on the road today that I'm not sure if I slammed on the old brakes I would have stopped like I did with these. I'm not too happy that they are drilled. I prefer slotted only. but figured why not try these out.
 

jdn112011

Well-Known Member
Oct 18, 2015
1,202
310
83
27
Roseau, MN
Truck Year
2015
Only cost me $700. I don't tow often but when I tow it's usually heavy and I push the truck. let's just put it this way, I had smoke coming out of the front pads and rotors a couple of times. that's why I'm shocked the original brakes lasted for that long. also got to say there is a difference in the braking. I had 2 idiots on the road today that I'm not sure if I slammed on the old brakes I would have stopped like I did with these. I'm not too happy that they are drilled. I prefer slotted only. but figured why not try these out.
I hear you on the emergency stopping distance. The oe pads may have long life and not awful dust but they don't grab very much.

To a friend; I described the difference in my braking to stopping the weight of a civic instead of a 7,000# truck. It's seriously that dramatic of a difference getting rid if the factory pads for a high friction material