I would agree with John.
I've done it the other way (without removing the cab), and used AllData DIY. It can be done this way, but requires a lot of leaning over into the engine compartment, so hopefully you have a good back!
IIRC, the special tools are the camshaft lock (for timing), timing...
OK. The VM Motori spec uses tolerance classes which makes it a little harder to follow unless you are using their pistons. I'm just going with what the mfr. for my new pistons recommends(0.0015") which is about in the middle of the range for the VM Motori tolerance classes (0.0009"-0.0031")...
Out of curiosity, what piston clearance are you running? The pistons I bought spec. 0.0015" piston to wall, which seems really tight, but they are also designed at 16:1 compression ratio, so I guess they need to be as tight as possible.
Hey @billetecodiesel - I ended up having to junk that engine. Several machine shops told me they could not save it once the bearings spun.
I have since rebuilt 3 other engines, but have been unable to find any oversized pistons (unless I ordered custom). I talked to Mahle and Hastings, and both...
So that code indicates there is an out of range pressure differential between the crankcase and the reference(atmospheric pressure, I believe). If the sensor was unplugged or the vapor return hose was re-routed differently, that could trigger a code.
I had an engine with too much blow-by that...
I believe that part is secured to the housing via a metal cup which is pressed in. I don't know that this part is available- doesn't look like it is called out separately in the housing assembly drawing. I took one apart a while back and the only way to get the metal cup out was destructively.
You are supposed to replace the fuel lines anytime they are removed due to the possibility of disturbing the coating inside (which could damage the HP pump/injectors, etc.). My personal experience with having rebuilt 3 engines is that I've reused the old ones and never had an issue. If you take...
As @Tremper126 pointed out, there are a number of noises that come from under the hood when you turn the ignition on or off (not to mention in the dash). The way you are describing it, I think it is fuel from the lift pump going through the lines, but there is another noise caused by the...
Just an idea. I had one with some fire damage that burned through the rubber. To repair it, I filled all the porous spots with RTV, and then enclosed with a heavy 3" shrink tube. If the connector is the problem, this may not work. Sometimes I see these on ebay used for under $200
Just a couple comments. If you've never had the intake off in 134k, that actually doesn't look as bad as most I've seen with less miles on them. The swirl valves alternate every other intake runner, so you aren't missing any.
To my knowledge, the only thing under the intake are coolant lines...
I have had one apart to the extent of having the shells off, but have not removed the impellers from the center section. They are pretty basic once apart, but it can be a little tricky to get the variable vanes back into the assembly. One other thing to watch for... there is a crush washer/ring...